Lou’s Manhattan Clam Chowder

Serves 8

(America)

Coming from New York and living on Long Island in a time when fresh clams were very inexpensive, dad grew up eating various versions of Manhattan Clam Chowder made from the fresh clams that were abundant in his youth.  This version was developed over the years to compensate in flavour for the years of living in places were fresh clams were either unavailable or very pricey (since you buy them by the pound and pay, primarily, for shell) and he had to use canned clams.  The cayenne pepper successfully compensates for that  loss  of fresh clam flavour and adds a spicy sub-tone to this chowder.

Ingredients

4 ounces of salt pork or bacon, cut into small pieces or about 2 healthy tablespoons of bacon grease

1 cup minced yellow onion

2 tablespoons of finely chopped flat-leafed parsley

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 bay leaf

2 cups minced celery

1 cup minced green pepper

3 (16 ounce ) cans chopped clams (juice reserved)

16 ounces of clam juice (juice reserved from the chopped clams supplemented by bottled clam juice to make 16 ounces) 

1(1-pound, 12-ounce) can Italian-style tomatoes, chopped (liquid reserved)

2 6 ounce can of tomato paste

4 cups diced red potatoes (cleaned, skin on)

8 cups water

2 tablespoons butter

salt and pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste

Preparation

1.  In a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat cook salt pork/bacon until it begins to render fat (or melt the bacon grease).  Add onions,  parsley, and black pepper.  Cook, stirring,  for about 5 minutes until onions soften (do not allow to brown).

2.  Add Bay leaf, minced celery and green pepper.  Cook, stirring, for 15 minutes.

3.  Add 8 ounces of the clam juice, reserved liquid from the tomatoes, the diced potatoes, and the water.  Simmer for 25 minutes after the mixture begins to simmer.

4.  Add the chopped clams, tomatoes, remaining 8 ounces of clam juice; stir in the tomato paste and the cayenne pepper.  Simmer for 15 minutes.

5.  Add the butter, stir to combine butter into the chowder.  At this point taste and correct seasoning (salt, pepper, cayenne) to taste.

6.   Continue to simmer for about 2 hours, uncovered, to allow the liquid to reduce and change what would be a soup to chowder.  Serve with crust bread and/or oyster crackers.

Next Week's Posting: Zuppa Pomodoro  di Toscano(Tuscan Tomato Soup)

Conchiglie con Piselli, Panna, e Menta

Conchiglie con Piselli, Panna, e Menta

(Shells with Peas, Cream, and Mint)

serves 8 

(Italy)

The fresh mint and fresh Italian parsley are what makes this dish work, don't even attempt it with the dried versions they just don't provide the same flavour.  Other pastas will also work here but the shells are traditional.

Ingredients

1 pound  large shell pasta

1 ¼  cups whipping  cream

1 pound of  frozen petite peas

2 1/2  cups freshly grated Romano cheese

¼ cup fresh mint, roughly chopped

½ cup fresh Italian parsley, roughly chopped

Additional Romano cheese for accompaniment

Preparation

1.  Bring a large pasta pot of heavily salted water to a boil, add the pasta and cook until al dente.  When the pasta reaches the al dente state, reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water and drain the pasta. Turn the heat off under the pot and return pasta to pot.

2.  In a large,  high-sided sauté pan over medium heat bring the cream to simmer (don’t not allow to boil). Add the still frozen peas and continue simmering until the peas are thawed and just warmed through, about 2 minutes or so.

3.  Add the Romano cheese and stir until the cheese is melted and forms a thickened sauce, about 1 minute. Stir in the mint and half the parsley.

4.  Pour the Romano cheese sauce over the pasta and toss it to evenly distribute the sauce over the shells.  If the pasta is too "tight" (dry), turn the heat on under the pot and  add the hot pasta cooking liquid, by tablespoonfuls, until the sauce reaches a consistency of your liking.  Adjust seasoning with salt and freshly ground pepper.

5. Remove the pot from the heat and either transfer to individual serving dishes sprinkling each serving with some of the remaining parsley OR transfer the pasta to a large pasta bow (to serve family style) and sprinkle with remaining parsley.

6.   Serve accompanied by additional Romano cheese.

Next Week's Posting: Lou's Manhattan Clam Chowder

Pasta e Fagoli Basilicata (Pasta and Beans Basilicata)

Pasta e Fagoli Basilicata

(Pasta and Beans Basilicata)

serves 4

(Italy)

“Pasta and beans, you can’t do that . . . it's two starches!” that’s what my new bride (Jo) said when I first told her about this Italian specialty . . . today she looks forward to it.  She enjoyed it so much that she would ask my mom (Susie) to make it all the time, including in the summer time, to which my mom would tell her “We can’t, Pasta e Fagoli is a winter dish!” . . . sorry mom we enjoy it year round.  This is our family version, no tomatoes, just a yummy sauce made of extra-virgin olive oil and the “juice” from the Cannellini beans.  It's a cross between a pasta dish and a soup.

Ingredients

1/4-cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 carrot, finely diced, about 1/4-inch

1 onion, finely diced, about 1/4-inch

1 rib celery, finely diced, about 1/4-inch

3 cloves garlic, micro-planed

2-tablespoons parsley leaves, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 bay leaf

Salt and black pepper to taste

2 - 15 1/2 ounce cans of cannellini beans, liquid reserved

1-pound Maccheroncelli or Ditalini pasta (small tube shaped macaroni)

Preparation

1.  In a large pasta pot bring a large volume of salted water to a rapid boil over high heat.  When the water comes to a roiling boil toss in the pasta and cook until the pasta is al dente.  Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking liquid before draining the pasta through a colander.

2.  While the pasta is cooking and in a separate 3 quart pot (large enough to accommodate both the pasta and the beans and sauce you are preparing), heat the oil over medium heat. Add the diced carrot, diced onion, diced celery, the garlic, parsley, red pepper flakes, and cook over medium heat until the vegetables become tender.

3.  While the vegetables are sautéing, fill the empty cans with water and stir the water around so it can absorb any of the thick cannellini liquid clinging to the inside of the cans.  Set the liquid filled cans aside.

4.  Add the reserved cannellini liquid, the water from the cans, and the bay leaf.  Reduce the heat to medium-low.

5.  Add the beans and the al dente pasta while gently stirring to evenly distribute both. Lower the heat to simmer and simmer the Pasta e Fagoli for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding some of the reserved pasta cooking liquid if the sauce is too "tight".

6.  Adjust seasoning with salt, freshly ground black pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste.   Serve immediately either "family style" in one pasta bowl OR divided evenly among warmed, individual pasta bowls and accompanied by additional extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle, red pepper flakes, and crusty Italian or French bread to "mop up" the fagoli "juice".

Next Week's Posting: Conchiglie con Piselli, Panna, e Menta (Shells with Peas, Cream, and Mint) 

Memphis Style Barbecue Ribs

Memphis Style Barbecue Ribs

makes about 4 – 6  servings

(America)

This recipe  is the  evolution of a spice mixture I became aware of when I  was a young Marine  stationed at Naval Air Station Millington Tennessee outside Memphis.  Some  of the keys to good ribs are to  remove  the "silver skin", partially slicing between each rib prior to cooking, and cooking slow and low (slowly over a low flame with plenty of smoke).  I think the addition of cumin to the traditional Memphis dry rub gives it a refreshing and slightly Mediterranean flavour surprise.

Ingredients

        6 pounds spare ribs

1 3/4 cups cider vinegar
1 3/4 cups apple cider
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 bay leaves
3 tablespoons Louisiana-style hot pepper sauce
1 tablespoon salt
3/4 cup BBQ Rub (recipe follows)
3 cups wood chips

Vinegar Sauce (recipe  follows), optional

Preparation

1.  If your ribs have not been already trimmed by the butcher, trim them as follows:

2.  Place the ribs meat-side up on a cutting board. There is a line of fat at the base of the ribs; cut along it to remove the rib tips, they're composed of cartilage and add nothing to the ribs. Turn the meat over, rib-side up.

3.  Cut off the flap of meat on the inside of the ribs. (The reason for removing these pieces is that they will burn well before the ribs are done. You can marinate and season these flaps with the rest of the ribs and grill them over direct heat for about 15 minutes, turning once. They are delicious.)

4.  With the rib-side up, work a sharp knife under the tough, silver-skin like membrane that covers the bones. Working from one rib to the next, pull the membrane off the rib. (For a better grip, grab the membrane with a paper towel.) The membrane may tear and you may have to start over, but be patient – removing the membrane allows the spices and smoke to penetrate the ribs, and makes the ribs much more attractive and easy to eat.  This is also a good time to slice partially between each rib to make separating them later easier.

5.  In a shallow, plastic or non-reactive pan or bowl large enough to hold the ribs, mix together 1 cup cider vinegar, 1 cup cider, garlic, bay leaves, 2 tablespoons hot sauce and the salt. Put the ribs in this marinade, turn to coat, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 16 hours, turning once during this time.

6.  Remove the ribs from the pan 2 hours before you plan to cook them and pat them dry. Discard the marinade.

7.  Sprinkle the ribs all over with 1/2 cup of the rub, patting it on with your fingers. Cover and refrigerate for about 1 1/2 hours.

8.  Remove the ribs from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 1/2 hour before grilling; this will help prevent the meat from "seizing up" and becoming tough when placed on the grill.

9.  Mix the remaining 3/4 cup cider vinegar, 3/4 cup cider, and 1 tablespoon hot sauce. You will apply this basting liquid to the ribs about once every hour or so with a spray bottle.

10. (optional) Soak about 3 cups of wood chips (hickory, oak or apple) for at least 1/2 hour in cold water.

11.  Prepare a charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill for indirect grilling over low heat . (optional) Drain and add 1 cup of the wood chips (for a gas grill, place  wood chips in a disposable aluminum pan under the grating where they can smolder and smoke).

12.  Place ribs  on the grill meat side down and grill the ribs, covered, until they are crispy, and the meat has pulled back from the bone, 3 to 4 hours, depending on the heat of your grill. Spray the ribs with the vinegar-cider mixture every hour, and turn them once during grilling. Don't forget to add more wood chips (optional)—and, if using charcoal, more coals—as needed (check every hour or so). You should have enough soaked wood chips for about 3 hours of cooking time; if your ribs take longer, you will need to soak more chips.

13.  If the ribs are done before you are ready to eat, wrap them in heavy-duty aluminum foil and leave them over very low, indirect heat for up to 1 hour.

14.  Remove the ribs from the grill, spray or baste with any remaining basting liquid, and sprinkle with the remaining the 1/4 cup of rub. Serve as is, or with Vinegar Sauce.

BBQ Rub

Makes about 1 cup or about enough for 8 pounds of Memphis style ribs

(America)

 Ingredients

6 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon garlic powder

2 teaspoons onion powder

2 teaspoons coarse salt, such as kosher salt

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Preparation

1.  In a sealable, clean container large enough for all  the ingredients,  combine the ingredients and seal the container.   Shake  the container briskly to completely and evenly distribute all the ingredients.

2.  Label the sealed container and store in a  cool, dark place until needed.

Vinegar Sauce

makes about 2 ½ cups

(America)

Ingredients

2 cups cider vinegar

1/4 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon Louisiana-style hot sauce

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon chili powder

Preparation

In a medium bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients. Use immediately, or cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Next Week's Posting: Soupe a l'Oignon au Fromage (French Onion Soup)

Classique Beuf Bourguignonne

Classique Beuf Bourguignonne

(Classic Beef Burgundy)

Serves 6

(France)

If you've never had it before, Beuf Bourguignon is quite simply the king of beef stews made famous by Julia Childs.  This is a classic recipe but don't be intimidated by the number of ingredients and steps in its preparation,  the result is well worth it.  Use first quality ingredients and pay attention to detail and this recipe won't disappoint.

Ingredients

6 ounces slab bacon, rind removed and reserved, cut into 1/4-by-1 1/2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 pounds stewing beef, relatively lean, cut into 2-inch cubes, patted dry

1 carrot, thinly sliced crosswise

1 medium onion, sliced crosswise

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups of good Burgundy wine

3  cups homemade or canned beef stock, plus ½ cup reserved

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 garlic, crushed and chopped

½ teaspoon of dried thyme, plus ¼ teaspoon additional for the bouquet garne

1 dried bay leaf, crumbled, plus ½ bay leaf additional bouquet garne

4 fresh sprigs of parsley bouquet garne, plus additional chopped for garnish

1 ½ tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons additional

1 ½ tablespoons vegetable oil, plus 1 tablespoon additional

24 - 36 cipollini or pearl onions (dependant on size), soaked in warm water for 15 minutes, and peeled

1 pound white mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

Coarse Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

1.  Preheat oven to 450° F.

2.  Meanwhile, on the stove top heat the olive oil in a Dutch-oven over medium, add the bacon and cook it until it is lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the bacon using a slotted spoon and set it aside on a plate, retain the oil and rendered bacon fat in the Dutch oven.

3.  Increase the heat under the Dutch oven to medium-high and continue to heat the oil and rendered fat until it is just below smoking point (you may test for this by placing one piece of beef in the Dutch oven, if it sizzles immediately its hot enough). Add remaining beef in small batches cooking each batch until it is well-browned on all sides. Remove meat, and set aside on the plate with the cooked bacon.

4.  Add carrots and sliced onions to the Dutch oven and cook until both are browned. Drain off the excess oil and bacon grease from the cooked vegetables and discard the grease but leave the vegetables in the Dutch oven.

5.  Return beef and bacon to the Dutch oven; season with 1 teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of black pepper. Sprinkle the  flour over the beef and vegetables and toss to coat.

6.  Remove the Dutch oven from the stove top and transfer it, uncovered, to the middle rack of the oven.  Bake for 4 minutes. Toss meat and vegetables and bake for an additional 4 minutes. Transfer the Dutch oven to the stove top and reduce temperature of the oven to 325° F.

7.  Turn the stove top under the Dutch oven to medium-low heat and stir in the 3 cups of Burgundy and enough stock to barely cover meat. Add the tomato paste, garlic, ½ teaspoon thyme, 1 crumbled bay leaf, and bacon rind; bring to a simmer.

8.  When the liquid comes to a simmer remove the Dutch oven from the heat, cover it, and transfer it to the lower-third of the oven. Bake, regulating heat so the stew continues to simmer, until beef is fork tender, about 2 ½ to 3 hours.

9.  Meanwhile, prepare a bouquet garne fashioned from an 8-by-8-inch piece of cheesecloth containing 4 sprigs of parsley, ½ bay leaf, ¼ teaspoon of thyme and tied using kitchen twine. Set aside.

10.  Whilst the stew is baking, in a medium skillet over medium heat combine 1 ½ tablespoons butter and 1 ½ tablespoons oil. When butter is bubbling, add the whole cipollini or pearl onions; sauté until they are nicely browned, about 10 minutes.

11.  Add ½ cup stock to the skillet; season with salt and pepper and add bouquet garne. Simmer, covered, until onions are tender and all the liquid has evaporated, 40 to 50 minutes. Remove bouquet garne, and discard it. Remove the onions to a plate and set aside.

12.  Wipe out the skillet and return it to the stove top placing it over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon oil to it and heat until the butter begins to foam. As the foaming subsides, add the mushrooms and sauté them, stirring often but gently, until they are lightly browned. Remove the skillet from the heat and set aside.

13.  When the beef in the Dutch oven is fork tender remove the Dutch oven from the oven and, if stew has a large amount of sauce otherwise go to alternative step 14, pour stew into a large sieve set over a large saucepan. Rinse or wipe out the Dutch-oven. Return beef and bacon to it and add the cooked mushrooms and onions.  Do not turn on the heat under the Dutch oven.

14.  Remove the sieve from the saucepan and allow the sauce to rest for a few moments then skim any fat that has risen to the surface from the sauce.

15.  Now, on the stove top, over medium-low heat, bring sauce to a simmer (skimming off as much additional fat as you can), and simmer for 1 or 2 minutes. Sauce should now be thick enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon. If too thin, bring it to a boil and reduce it to correct consistency. If too thick, add a few tablespoons of stock. Correct seasoning with salt and black pepper.

16.  Remove the sauce from the heat and pour it over the meat and vegetables in the Dutch oven.  Turn the heat under the Dutch oven to medium and bring the stew to a simmer.  Simmer, covered, basting the meat and vegetables with sauce for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Garnish with parsley; Serve immediately by either plating to individual service plates and garnishing with chopped parsley for a formal setting or placing the entire Dutch oven on the dinner table and serving family style for a less formal meal.

Alternative step

14.  Add the onions and mushrooms to the stew, stir to distribute throughout the stew. Turn the heat under the Dutch oven to medium and bring the stew to a simmer, adjust the consistency of the sauce by adding a few tablespoons of stock at a time until it reaches the correct consistency (the sauce should be thick enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon). 

15.  Simmer, covered, basting the meat and vegetables with sauce for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Garnish with parsley; Serve immediately by either plating to individual service plates and garnishing with chopped parsley for a formal setting or placing the entire Dutch oven on the dinner table and serving family style for a less formal meal.

Next Week's Posting:  Polpetta alla Sansevero
 

Bistecca Trestevere con Rucola

Bistecca Trestevere con Rucola

(Beef steak in the Trestevere style with Arugula)

Serves 2

(Italy)

This is a recipe Jo fell in love with when we visited Rome and stayed in Trestevere, it is so simple yet so delicious.  The steak is prepared simply, seared and served very rare (in the Tuscan style) over a bed of arugula (rocket).  As the steak is cut it releases its hot juices which become a dressing for and slightly wilts the greens.  If you like your steak well-done do not even try this recipe . . . putting “shoe leather” over arugula does nothing to improve the taste of neither the steak nor the Arugula.

Ingredients

2 (1 inch or thicker) well marbled, steak (preferably rib-eye)

Extra-virgin olive oil to brush on the steaks

4 to 6 cups of Arugula

Freshly ground black pepper

Coarsely ground Kosher salt

Simple Steak Seasoning (such Montreal Steak Seasoning) (optional)

1/2 cup shaved Parmesan (use a vegetable peeler to shave a block of cheese)

Dressing for the sliced versions (optional):

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Juice from 1 lemon

2 medium cloves of garlic, finely minced

1 tablespoon of chopped, fresh Italian flat parsley leaves

1 tablespoon of chopped, fresh oregano leaves

Course Kosher salt

Fresh coarsely ground black pepper

Preparation

Dressing if used:

1.  Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, parsley, oregano, and a pinch each of salt and pepper in a small bowl until smooth.

The beef:

1. Rub both sides of each steak generously with the extra-virgin olive oil and season with either salt and pepper or simple steak seasoning rubbing the season into both sides.  Set steaks aside and allow to marinate in the rub for about ½ hour.

2.  Meanwhile pre-heat a gas or charcoal grill to its hottest or pre-heat a stove top grill or grill pan until it is very, very hot.

3.  When the grill (or grill pan) reaches its maximum heat, place the steaks on the grate (or in the grill pan).  Allow the steaks to cook for about 3 to 4 minutes on 1 side, without moving or piercing the meat . . . you want to create a good, crusty sear outside while maintaining a very rare center. When steaks are browned, flip and sear the other side for 3 to 4 minutes (you want the internal temperature to be either 120° F for rare 125° F for medium-rare on an instant-read thermometer, do not overcook).

4.  When the steaks are cooked either:
    (a) cover the steaks with aluminum foil and allow the steaks to rest for about 5 minutes meanwhile place half the Arugula on a each serving plate.  When the steaks have rested slice each thinly across the grain, arrange in overlapping slices over the Arugula on each plate (drizzle any juices that may escape during slicing over the steak slices), dress each plate with the dressing over the steak and Arugula and distribute the shaved Parmesan over all
                                                                           or
     (b) place some of the shaved Parmesan (if used) on the Arugula on each plate and immediately place the unsliced steaks on top of the Arugula and shaved cheese (you can omit or use the dressing as you desire).  Serve immediately, this is one time you don’t want to allow the steaks to rest, you want them to release their hot juices to make the salad dressing and wilt the Arugula.

5.  When eating be sure to get some of the Parmesan, the Arugula, and steak on each forkful.

 Next Week's Posting:  Classique Beuf Bourguignonne