Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

serves 4

(Italy)

Spaghetti all'Amatriciana is a traditional Italian pasta dish based on guanciale(dried pork cheek) and spicy tomato sauce found on the menus of many high-end Italian restaurants.  While guanciale may be hard to come by pancetta or even thick-cut American bacon make acceptable substitutes.  When I prepare this dish I follow my mother's tradition and include a 2-inch cube of Parmigiano-Reggiano to the sauce while it's cooking, it adds great flavour to the sauce and makes a great snack for the chef . . . . just remember to remove it when you remove the sprigs of Rosemary and Sage and before you puree or mash the tomatoes!

                                                                             Prep time:  15 minutes

                                                                             Cook time:  2 hours 15  minutes

                                                                             Total time:   2 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

1 pound dried spaghetti, cooked al dente according to package directions

12 ounce of  Guanciale*  cut into ¼-inch strips (or substitute pancetta or thick-cut American bacon)

2 tablespoons  unsalted butter

2 medium carrots, finely chopped

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, micro-planed

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 sprig fresh sage

½ cup red wine

1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano whole, peeled tomatoes, roughly crushed by hand and including the juices

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

Kosher or sea salt, to taste

¼-1 teaspoon red chile flakes, to taste

grated Pecorino Romano cheese

roughly chopped fresh Italian flat leaved parsley

* un-smoked Italian bacon prepared from pig's jowl or cheeks

Preparation

render the Guanciale:

In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat the Guanciale (bacon) and cook it until its fat renders and the bacon is crisp, about 15 minutes.   Transfer the rendered bacon, using a slotted spoon,  to a dish lined with paper towels to drain.  Leave the rendered fat in the pan.

prepare the sauce:

1.  Add butter, the  carrots and the onions to the pan.  Season with salt, and saute, stirring, until soft, about 6 minutes.

2.  Add half the garlic, the rosemary and the sage, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

3.  Add wine, and cook, stirring, until it is evaporated, about 5 minutes.

4.  Add the crushed tomatoes and their juices, and bring the contents of the pan to a boil and immediately reduce the heat under the pan to medium-low and cook, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until the sauce is reduced and thickened, about 2 hours.

5.  After the sauce is thickened remove and discard rosemary and sage stems.  To puree the sauce American style, allow the sauce to cool slightly to prevent an unpleasant blender accident and transfer the cooled sauce to a blender.  Puree the sauce and then return it to the pan. If, however, you prefer your sauce as Italians like, slightly chunky, use an old fashioned potato masher to mash (crush) the roughly crushed tomatoes further into chunks you prefer.  Stir in ¾ of the reserved bacon, along with remaining garlic and oil, pepper, and chile flakes; keep warm.

cook the pasta:

Cook the pasta per package directions in heavily salted water until it is al dente, about 8 minutes.  Drain the pasta reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. 

  

service:

Add the drained spaghetti to the pan with sauce; toss to coat.  If the pasta seems too tight (dry) for your taste, add some of the reserved pasta cooking water, a little at a time, until the sauce loosens up.  Divide the  sauced pasta  amongst warmed serving dishes,  garnish each service with some of the remaining reserved bacon, some of the pecorino cheese, and parsley.  Serve immediately accompanied by the grated Pecorino-Romano cheese 

Spaghetti Al Limone (Lemon Spaghetti)

Spaghetti Al Limone

(Lemon Spaghetti)

(Italy)

serves 4

This recipe marries the sweet flavour of Amalfi lemons with fresh basil  to transport  you back to the sunny hillsides of the Amalfi coast of Italy if you've been  there and will make you long for the warmth of the Southern Italian coast if you never have.   While it makes a light summertime pasta dish, you can also kick-up the recipe with the addition of the Prosciutto ham and the heat of the red pepper flakes.

Ingredients

1 pound  spaghetti

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2/3 cup parmesan cheese, grated

½  cup fresh lemon juice, about 3 lemons

1 teaspoon Kosher or sea salt

½  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste (optional)

1 tablespoon lemon zest

1/3 cup fresh basil, chopped

¼ pound thinly sliced Prosciutto, cut into chiffonade (optional)

Preparation

1.   Bring a large quantity of heavily salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat.  When the water comes to a boil add the spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, according to package directions until al-dente', about 8 minutes.

2.  Meanwhile, if you are going to use red pepper flakes, heat the oil add red pepper flakes and sauté in a small sauté pan for 1 or 2 minutes to allow the oil to absorb the pepper's spiciness.  Allow the red pepper oil to cool.   If you are not using red pepper flakes skip to step 3.

3.  In a large bowl or measuring cup,  whisk together the olive oil (including the pepper flakes if used), Parmesan cheese and lemon juice.

4.  Drain the pasta reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.  Place the drained pasta in a large, high sided sauté pan over medium heat.

5.  Add the lemon sauce and toss the pasta to distribute the sauce, if the pasta  is too "tight" add the reserved pasta cooking liquid, ¼ at a time, and continue tossing until sauce "loosens up" to your liking.

6.  Add chiffonade Prosciutto, if you chose to add it, and continue to toss to distribute.

7.  Correct seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with lemon zest and chopped basil and serve immediately.

Cincinnati Chili

Cincinnati Chili 

serves 4

(America)

Cincinnati-style chili is an enduring American classic that I first tasted in the Cincinnati  airport while on  a business trip.  Whether prepared two-way (chili over spaghetti), three-way (with cheese), four-way (with onions), or five-way (with a finishing flourish of kidney beans) it's an interesting twist on both chili and spaghetti.

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds ground beef

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/4 teaspoons granular garlic

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon celery seed

1 dried bay leaf

Kosher or sea salt, to taste

freshly ground black pepper,  to taste

2 cups tomato sauce

1 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 cup water*

4 cups finely grated cheddar cheese (optional)

2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped (optional)

1  15-ounce can red kidney beans, rinsed  under hot water and drained (optional)

3/4 pound dried spaghetti

Preparation

1. In a large (12-inch) sauté pan over medium-high heat bring oil to the ripple stage.  Add garlic and half of the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 5–6 minutes. 

2.  Add beef and cook, stirring, until  it  begins to brown.  Add the chili powder, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, cumin, oregano, nutmeg, celery seed, bay leaf, and salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, 6–8 minutes. Tilt skillet and spoon out and discard any accumulated fat. 

3.  Add tomato sauce, cocoa powder, and water; bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered, until somewhat thick*, about 25 minutes.

4.  For a two-way, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat.  Add spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until al  dente, 6-8 minutes; drain.

5.   Meanwhile, for a four way, heat beans in a small pot and cook over medium heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until hot throughout. 

6.  Divide spaghetti between 4 large bowls.  For a two-way, top each bowl of spaghetti with 1/4 of the chili;  for a three-way, top with cheese; for a four-way top each bowl  with some of the remaining onions; and for a five-way top with beans. Serve hot, with oyster crackers on the side.

*additional water can be added if chili is too "tight"

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio (Spaghetti with garlic and Oil)

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio

(Spaghetti with garlic and Oil)

(Italy)

serves 4

The sauce, Aglio E Olio, for this dish becomes the “mother sauce” (the basis) for the Puttanesca sauce, it is also the first sauce my mother taught me.  It is deceptively simple; garlic and extra-virgin olive oil with just enough red pepper to wake up your taste buds.  If you try the options you'll find that the Alice (Ah-leach,  Italian for anchovy) completely dissolves during cooking leaving behind a nutty, salty (not fishy) taste and the inclusion of a beaten egg imbues the dish with a richness (many people leave the raw egg out for fear of salmonella but I've eaten Aglio E Olio this way all my life without any negative consequences) .  

Ingredients

1 pound Spaghetti, cooked al dente

1/2-cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 flat anchovy fillets, chopped (optional)

6-10 cloves garlic

1/2-teaspoon red pepper flake, or to taste (optional)

1/4 cup  flat leaved Italian parsley, chopped

3 large sweet Italian Basil leaves, chiffonade

1 egg, well beaten

Grated cheese (Parmesan or Romano)

Preparation

1.  About an hour before starting the Aglio e Olio sauce place the olive oil in a small  bowl, micro-plane 2 or 3 of the garlic cloves, and place the red pepper  flakes into it.  Set the bowl  aside on your counter and allow the oil to infuse with the flavour of the garlic and the heat of the red pepper flakes.

2.   After the oil has had time to infuse and in a small saucepan heat the infused oil, the micro-planed garlic,  the red pepper flakes,  and butter together over very low heat.

3.  Finely chop the remaining garlic.

4.  Add the infused oil and butter mixture to a large sauté pan (large enough to hold the volume of cooked spaghetti) over medium heat, add the chopped garlic and sauté it until it is soft and translucent (DO NOT allow the garlic to brown!)

.

5.  Meanwhile, bring a large volume of salted water to a rapid boil over high heat.

6.  Lower the heat under the sauté pan to medium-low, add the Alice (anchovies) and cook until the fish is dissolved, about 5 minutes.

7.  When the water comes to a rapid boil, toss in the spaghetti and cook until the spaghetti is cooked al dente.  

8.  Drain the spaghetti and toss the cooked pasta with the sauce in the sauté pan.   Sprinkle the Aglio e Olio with the parsley and toss to distribute the chopped parsley into the cooked pasta.

9.  Optional  step:  If you're going to add the beaten egg;  while it's still hot pour the spaghetti and sauce into a large spaghetti bowl (large enough to hold all  the past and sauce) and while pouring the beaten egg over the pasta with one hand toss the pasta, using  a pair of tongs in the other, to distribute the egg throughout it; the hot pasta and sauce should cook the egg.

10.  Serve immediately topped by grated cheese and the chiffonade basil accompanied by crusty Italian or French bread and extra grated cheese and red pepper  flakes.

Spaghetti e Salsa di Granchio

Spaghetti e Salsa di Granchio

(Spaghetti with Crab Sauce)

(Italy)

serves 4

This is a traditional  spicy Southern Italian seafood pasta dish and, while the traditional recipe calls for whole crabs, it works equally well with King or Snow  crab legs.  Hint: REAL Italians DO NOT use cheese as an accompaniment  with seafood pasta sauces.

                Ingredients

1 pound dry spaghetti or linguini

4 large blue crabs or 1 pound of thawed frozen king 

   crab legs, cut into 3" pieces (2 pounds if  you can find lump crab meat)

1 pound lump crabmeat

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

2 tablespoons softened butter

6 cloves garlic, finely minced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or to taste)

2 28-ounce can whole tomatoes (San Marzano tomatoes preferred), drained, and hand crushed

1 cup red wine

2 tablespoons of tomato paste

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley, plus additional for garnish

1/2 teaspoon coarse Kosher or sea salt (to taste)

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (to taste)

1/2 cup chiffonade fresh basil  leaves for garnish

Preparation

1.  In a large pot over medium-high heat bring the olive oil to the ripple stage and add the butter. When the butter melts add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, do not allow it to brown, about 2 minutes.  Add the pepper flakes, the salt, the ground  black pepper, the basil, the parsley, the crushed tomatoes and their juices.  Stir to combine the ingredients and allow to come to a simmer.

2.  Increase the heat to high, add the crabs and bring to a boil.  As the sauce comes to a boil lower the heat until you achieve a gentle simmer,  stir in the tomato paste and cook the sauce and crabs for about 30 minutes.

3.  After the 30 minutes remove the crabs to a serving bowl and keep warm in an oven set to about 150° F.

4.  If there are large chunks of tomato still in the sauce and it's not to your liking, crush them using a potato masher to achieve the consistency you prefer, unlike Americans Italians prefer their tomato sauce to be slightly chunky.  Add the lump crab meat stirring to distribute and allow the sauce to continue simmering for an additional 15 minutes until the crab meat is cooked through.

5.  Lower the heat under the sauce to low to keep it warm.

6. Bring a large spaghetti pot of heavily salted water to a boil over high heat.  When the water is rapidly boiling add the spaghetti and cook it until it is al dente (tender but still firm to the bite), 10 to 12 minutes. Drain reserving 1 cup of the cooking  water. 

7.  Meanwhile, correct the seasoning of the sauce with salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste.  If  the sauce is too tight, loosen it using a little of the reserved spaghetti cooking liquid (not too much, Italian sauces are meant to be a  little tight).

8.  Add the drained pasta to the sauce and toss to combine evenly and to reheat the pasta.  

9.  For service either divide the sauced pasta among warmed service bowls, drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil and  garnished with additional chiffonade basil or, for a family style service, plate the sauced pasta on a large service platter drizzled with a little extra-virgin olive oil and  garnished with the additional chiffonade basil and serve with the crabs on a separate platter  accompanied by plenty of crusty Italian or French bread and extra red pepper flakes for the real Italians.